Riga – A City of Contrasts and Charm
Riga, the capital of Latvia, sits on the banks of the Daugava River, just inland from the Baltic Sea. For centuries, it has been a hub of trade, politics, and culture, and its history and architecture clearly reflect that past. Founded in 1201, Riga quickly became an important Hanseatic city in the Middle Ages. Today, it’s one of the most popular destinations in the Baltics, known for its historic Old Town, stunning Art Nouveau architecture, and a thriving food, culture, and nightlife scene.
I visited and have selected some travel tips for you to make sure you sleep and eat and drink well!
Over the centuries, Riga has been ruled by many powers. The German Order, the Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth, Sweden, and Russia all left their mark on the city before Latvia first gained independence in 1918. After the Soviet occupation during and after World War II, Latvia once again regained independence in 1991.
The beautiful Old Town
The Old Town is the natural starting point for most visitors. Compact and charming, it sits just north of the river, surrounded by remnants of the old city walls. Here you’ll find cobblestone streets, colorful buildings, lively squares, and historic churches. Riga Cathedral, the city’s oldest, dates back to the early 1200s.
Scattered around the Old Town are countless quirky sculptures, perfect for a fun teambuilding activity if you’re visiting with a group.
The Old Town is full of cafés, boutiques, and restaurants. Despite being a tourist hotspot, it still feels authentic and lived-in. Wandering the side streets is the best way to stumble upon hidden courtyards with flowers and outdoor cafés or lively spots with music and street performers.
Art Nouveau Capital
While the Old Town reflects Riga’s medieval and Hanseatic roots, it’s the neighborhoods beyond that show why Riga is considered a capital of Art Nouveau architecture. The city boasts the largest collection of Art Nouveau buildings in all of Europe. Many were built around 1900, during a period of rapid growth and prosperity. Look out for facades decorated with flowers, female figures, lions, masks, and mythological motifs.
The best examples are found around Alberta iela and Elizabetes iela. For those truly interested in the style, the Riga Art Nouveau Museum is a must. Located in a beautifully preserved 1903 home, it even has guides dressed in period costumes. Afterwards, stop for coffee and cake at Art Café Sienna, a few steps away, where you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped into someone’s elegant living room.
Recent History
Another important landmark is the Freedom Monument, unveiled in 1935 to commemorate Latvian independence. It survived the Soviet years and remains a symbol of national pride. Nearby, you’ll find the Laima Clock, a popular local meeting spot.
To understand more of Riga’s 20th-century history, visit the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia, which documents life under both Nazi and Soviet rule. It covers political oppression, forced labor, and deportations, a sobering but essential experience. I didn’t make it this time, but it’s high on my list for my next visit. This is history within living memory, I still remember the Iron Curtain, but 35 years have passed, and I could use a refresher.
Food and Restaurants
Traditional Latvian cuisine is based on simple, hearty ingredients like potatoes, pork, herring, barley, and cabbage. Over time, it has been influenced by German, Russian, and Scandinavian cooking. Recently, Riga has undergone a food renaissance, with restaurants blending local ingredients with modern techniques.
Some places I recommend:
- Vina bars Garage – Great for both lunch/dinner and nightlife
- B Bars – Also good for cocktails
- Kaļķu vārti – Gourmet restaurant in the Old Town
- Rozengrāls – A quirky “medieval restaurant”
- Agenskalns Market – Food hall where we enjoyed delicious Georgian dishes
Be sure to try pelmeni, small dumplings filled with meat, served with sour cream and herbs. Grilled pork with potatoes and mustard sauce is another staple, as is smoked fish like trout or herring, often paired with rye bread and pickles. And don’t miss garlic rye bread, served as a snack in bars!
One of the best places for food lovers is Riga Central Market, one of Europe’s largest markets. Housed in old Zeppelin hangars, it has five huge halls filled with everything from meat and fish to bread, flowers, and fresh produce. It’s both a place to shop and to eat your way through local flavors.
Nightlife
When it comes to drinks, Riga is famous for Riga Black Balsam, a herbal bitter once used as medicine and now a popular cocktail ingredient. The craft beer and cider scene is also growing, with several small breweries opening in recent years.
Riga’s café and bar culture is well developed, with something for every budget. While many of the busiest spots are in the Old Town, it’s worth exploring further out. Miera iela, Riga’s bohemian district, is full of cozy cafés, vintage shops, and galleries—popular with students and artists.
Some of my favorites and recommendations:
- Cuba Café – Tiny, lively, with live music
- Vīna Studija Splendid – Wine and food in an elegant setting
- Garage – Relaxed wine bar with excellent food
- Ala Folkklubs – Cellar bar with beer, garlic bread and live folk music
- Skyline Bar at Radisson Blu Latvija
- Sky Bar at Grand Hotel Kempinski
- Bar XIII
- Gimlet
- Barents Cocktail Bar – Owned by Raimonds Tomsons, the World’s Best Sommelier 2023
Spa
All three Baltic countries are now known for their affordable spa hotels, especially for us Norwegians!
We stayed at the Grand Poet Hotel, which has a beautiful spa area.
My recommendations:
- Grand Poet Hotel – Spa-hotel with champagne for breakfast
- Grand Hotel Kempinski – spa hotel with skybar
- Konventa Seta Hotel Keystone Collection – A cluster of historic buildings in the heart of town
- Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija – Spa and Skyline Bar
- Neiburgs Hotel & Restaurant – Stylish and central, right in the Old Town
Beyond Riga
Riga is a year-round destination, though summer and early autumn are the most popular times. The weather is mild, outdoor cafés are buzzing, and festivals fill the squares and parks. Summer is also perfect for combining the city with a beach trip to Jurmala, just 30 minutes away by train. Jurmala is known for its sandy beach, wooden villas, and spa hotels.
In winter, Riga is cold and dark but offers a more intimate experience, with Christmas markets and snow-covered streets in the Old Town. I visited in early April and had both T-shirt weather one day and snowstorms the next so check the forecast and pack accordingly!
What makes Riga such an interesting destination is its mix of old and new. I still remember the Eastern Bloc years and find it fascinating how far the city has come, especially in food and drink. I also have to shake off the old stereotype of Eastern Europe as gray and gloomy, because Riga’s Old Town is anything but.
Riga works beautifully as a weekend trip for couples or friends, but also as a group destination for companies or associations looking for something new, just a short flight from Norway.
Another “unknown” capital to visit, is Skopje in Macedonia.
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